Like their corded counterparts, cordless rear-handle saws are heavier than the more compact sidewinder style.īoth styles use brushless motors and a direct drive (aside from Skilsaw’s worm drive), so there isn’t necessarily the same higher torque in the rear-handle style as there is with corded models. The rest use a direct drive gearing system and go with a rear-handle design to accommodate the preference for that style. The exceptions are Skilsaw’s 48V cordless worm drives. Most cordless rear-handle saws aren’t true worm drives. The West Coast tends to prefer rear-handle while the East Coast generally goes sidewinder. The spread between sidewinder and rear-handle cordless circular saw styles is largely regional. Depth of compatible tools on the same battery system.Here are things we consider as part of our value calculation: Start with what you know you’re willing to spend and build your priorities from there. We’re big on value and love figuring out what the best saw for our budget is. There’s no reason to carry more weight than you have to, though, and it’s possible to get a Pro-level saw under 10 pounds with the battery. However, heavy saws can contribute to “stickier” cutting if the shoe isn’t low-friction enough. Weightīecause you nearly always cut on top of your material, the weight comes into play primarily when you’re carrying your circular saw from one place to another. If your hate the grip in the store, it’s unlikely to get better once you’re cutting. See if you can put your hands on the saw in the store before you take it home. While rear handles are rarely an issue, our crew is drawn towards front handle designs that aren’t too thin, too close to the rear handle, or angled in a direction that becomes uncomfortable. ![]() Handle comfort is largely an individual choice with the size of your hand driving a lot of what feels best. Look for models with at least 4500 RPM (5000 is even better) and a brushless motor to maintain effective clearing. As RPMs drop because of a lower top-end speed or bogging down, the clearing suffers. In general, most circular saws do a good job of clearing dust and chips. We prefer a vacuum adapter that’s either removable or pivots to direct the chips where we want them. However, the majority of our team never connects a vac for normal cutting. ![]() Many of the best cordless circular saws have vacuum ports and those do a better job of clearing chips and dust away than those without. ![]() Make a series of test cuts on scrap material to see if your guard catches on a particular type of cut so you know when to manually lift it without dragging away from your cutline. Even when it’s smooth on a typical cut, thin, miter, bevel, or compound cuts can expose issues. The lip of a circular saw guard can catch in some cases. Most of the time, you can adjust to the handle design pretty quickly. Sometimes the handle design can encourage you to push to one side or the other, especially with saws that have the front and rear handles close together. Tracking isn’t about having an arbor that’s off-that would be a defect and you should return the saw if that’s the problem. However, if you don’t mind taking your time, there are some excellent high-value cordless options that can help you get the job done for less. If cutting power is your number one priority, expect to pay for a more expensive saw. Today’s battery-powered options are much better and many brands easily outperform 15-amp corded saws with their flagship brushless models. It wasn’t that long ago we had to feather cordless circular saws compared to the way we cut with corded models. Buy at The Home Depot Best Cordless Circular Saw Buying Guide – What We Look For Cutting Power
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